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June 15, 2011
Chewing Gum
Brent Bilhartz
Title: Xylitol Poisoning
Sugar substitutes are big business. Less sugar can mean weight loss, improved health, diabetic control, and even reduced tooth decay. The quest for products that can sweeten and cook like sugar is ongoing. Xylitol is common sugar substitute, especially when it comes to sugarless gum. Not only does xylitol offer sweetness without calories, it also has antibacterial properties in the mouth so as to reduce periodontal disease and has been found to have far reaching health benefits in other areas of the body. Xylitol may help with osteoporosis, prevention of ear and throat infections, and may reduce risk of endometriosis, uterine fibroids, and even breast cancer.
Sounds wonderful and maybe it is - if you are a human. If you are a dog, xylitol is potentially lethal.
Two Deadly Effects of Xylitol:
Hypoglycemia
In the canine body, the pancreas confuses xylitol with real sugar and releases insulin to store the "sugar." The problem is that xylitol does not offer the extra Calories of sugar and the rush of insulin only serves to remove the real sugar from the circulation. Blood sugar levels plummet resulting in weakness, disorientation, tremors, and potentially seizures.
It does not take many sticks of gum to poison a dog, especially a small dog (see below for toxic doses). Symptoms typically begin within 30 minutes and can last for more than 12 hours. Vomiting and diarrhea may also occur.
Hepatic Necrosis
The other reaction associated with xylitol in the canine body is actual destruction of liver tissue. How this happens remains unknown but the doses of xylitol required to produce this effect are much higher than the hypoglycemic doses described above. Signs take longer to show up (typically 8-12 hours) and surprisingly not all dogs that experience hepatic necrosis, will have experienced hypoglycemia first. A lucky dog experiences only temporary illness but alternatively, a complete and acute liver failure can result with death following. Internal hemorrhage and inability of blood to clot is commonly involved.
How Much Xylitol Is Dangerous?
The hypoglycemic dose of xylitol for dogs is considered to be approximately 0.1 grams per kilogram of body weight (about 0.045 grams per pound). A typical stick of gum contains 0.3 to 0.4 grams of xylitol, which means that a 10 lb dog could be poisoned by as little as a stick and a half of gum.
The dose to cause hepatic necrosis is 1 gram per kilogram of body weight, about ten times more than the above dose. In the example above, the 10 lb dog would have to find an unopened package of gum and eat it for liver destruction to occur.
Treatment
Ideally, the patient can be seen quickly (within 30 minutes) and can be made to vomit the gum or candy. Beyond this, a sugar IV drip is prudent for a good 24 hours. Liver enzyme and blood clotting tests are monitored for 2 to 3 days. Blood levels of potassium are ideally monitored as well. Elevated blood phosphorus levels often bode poorly.
What about Cats?
What about Xylitol Containing Mouthwashes for Pets?
The oral health benefits of xylitol do seem to hold true for dogs if appropriately low doses of xylitol are used. A product called Aquadent® has been marketed for canine oral care, specifically for dogs that do not tolerate other methods of dental home care. This product is mixed in drinking water to provide antibacterial benefits. It comes in a 500cc (half liter) bottle that contains a total of 2.5 grams of xylitol as well as in small packets. If one follows the dosing instructions on the bottle or packet, there should be no problems.
Trouble could occur if there are animals of different sizes drinking from the same water bowl (one should dose for the smallest animal to use the bowl to be sure overdose is not possible). A dog finding the bottle and chewing it up, drinking a substantial quantity of the undiluted product could easily be poisoned depending on the dog's size.
Keep this phone number handy:
(888) 426-4435
This is the number for National Animal Poison Control Center, a 24-hour service whereby you can speak directly to a veterinary toxicology specialist. In addition to advice, you will receive a case number which your veterinarian can use for further consultation at no additional charge.
Posted June 15, 2011
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May 17, 2011
Mange
Brent Bilhartz
CANINE DEMODECTIC MANGE
Mange is a parasitic skin disease caused by microscopic mites. Two different mange mites cause skin disease in dogs. One lives just under the surface of the skin, while the other resides deep in the hair follicles. Although both mites share similar characteristics, there are also important differences. It is important not to confuse the two types of mange because they have different causes, treatments, and prognoses.
What causes demodectic mange?
Demodectic mange, sometimes just called "demodex" or "red mange", is the most common form of mange in dogs. It is caused by the demodectic mange mite, a parasite which lives in the hair follicles of affected dogs. Under the microscope, this mite appears shaped like a cigar with eight legs. All dogs (and many humans) have a few of these mites on their skin. As long as the body's immune system is functioning properly, these mites cause no harm. Demodectic mange most often occurs when a dog has an immature immune system, allowing the mites to grow rapidly. As a result, this disease occurs primarily in dogs less than 12-18 months of age. In most cases, as a dog matures, the immune system also matures. Adult dogs that have the disease usually have defective immune systems.
Does this mean that demodectic mange is not contagious?
Yes. Since the mite is found on virtually all dogs, exposure of a normal dog to one with demodectic mange is not dangerous.
Why doesn't the immune system mature correctly in some dogs?
Development of the immune system is under genetic or hereditary control. Thus, an affected dog usually comes from a litter containing other affected puppies. Owners of littermates should be alerted to watch for the development of mange in their puppies. Because the disease is due to a genetic defect, affected dogs should not be bred. Also, parents of the affected dog should not be bred again.
What does demodectic mange do to the dog?
Surprisingly, a dog with demodectic mange does not itch severely, even though it loses hair in patches. Areas of bare skin will be seen. The hair loss usually begins on the face, especially around the eyes. When there are only a few patches of hair loss, it is termed localized demodectic mange. If the disease spreads to many areas of the skin, it becomes generalized demodectic mange.
How is demodectic mange treated?
The localized form is usually treated with topical medication. The generalized form requires shampoo therapy and a special dip or oral medication. Shampooing with special cleansing shampoos helps to flush out the hair follicles prior to dipping. Dipping is described below. For dogs with generalized demodectic mange, secondary skin infections complicate the condition requiring antibiotic therapy. Dogs with skin infections often have very red, inflamed skin. This is the source of the term "red mange."
I heard that there is a drug that can be given orally
for demodectic mange? Is that true?
Yes, with some reservations. Ivermectin is a drug that is used for prevention of heartworms. It is also used for certain parasites on cattle. The cattle preparation has been used orally for demodectic mange in dogs. In some dogs it has proven to be successful. However, it is a very strong drug that can cause severe side-effects, including death, if it is not administered properly. It is not approved for use in dogs, so we would only consider using it as long as you are willing to accept liability for adverse effects.
What is the prognosis for my dog?
Treatment of the demodectic mange is generally successful. However, if the immune system is defective, neither the mites nor the infection may respond to treatment.
Following successful treatment, is it likely to recur?
Because the immune system does not mature until 12-18 months of age, a dog with demodectic mange may have relapses until that age. It is important to treat as soon as a relapse occurs to minimize the possibility of developing uncontrollable problems. Demodectic mange may also occur in older dogs because function of the immune system often declines with age. Dogs who have immune suppression due to illness or medication are also candidates for demodectic mange.
Posted May 17, 2011
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May 11, 2011
Crate Training Dogs
Brent Bilhartz
Title: Crate-Training for Adult Dogs
Source: Canine Behavior Series
Crate training is easiest in puppyhood, but at times it's both necessary and feasible to train an adult dog to rest calmly in a crate. It's important to note, though, that not all dogs can be crate trained. Some will panic and can hurt themselves.
It's possible to create the panic problem by how crate-training is attempted. If the puppy or dog gets the idea that making a fuss will cause you to come to the rescue, you can accidentally create a dog who becomes hysterical when confined to a crate, a dangerous situation for the dog.
But most dogs can be crate-trained, especially when it's not a crisis and you can take your time. Plus, with a mature dog who is not a chewer, you can put bedding in the crate and make it a cozy place to sleep. That's often unwise with chewing pups or young dogs who will chew and possibly swallow bedding.
Evaluate your mature, non-chewing dog as to whether you'll best use cool bedding or warm bedding. Blankets can be too hot under furry dogs. Cold-natured dogs, on the other hand, need warmer bedding. So customize that aspect for your dog's body. Ideally, you want your dog friend to like the bedding enough to go in there for a nap with the door open.
Then, with the crate door open, start giving your dog treats in the crate, feeding some meals in there, and generally making it positive and pleasant. Never overdo the length of time a dog is in a crate. While you might be able to regain the dog's trust with a slow process of building up from short times again, some dogs will never forget.
The length of time to continue work on positive conditioning to the crate with the door open will vary according to your dog's history and how your dog feels about the crate. Take it slowly.
As the dog gets completely happy about the crate with the door open, start closing the door briefly with the same pleasant things going on. Build the time gradually, staying in the room. Next, start leaving the room for short periods. Then gradually lengthen the periods of time you are gone.
Eventually you'll be up to the time periods you need. Eight hours is the top limit for crating at any one time. A dog who can sleep 8 hours in a crate cannot necessarily go 8 hours at other times. During sleep, the dog's body quiets bowels and bladder. When the dog wakes up, the body has to compensate for having held this waste.
If your dog can't handle the crate for some reason, often a small area of the house works equally well. Another option is to use baby-gates to keep the dog out of certain sensitive areas of the house. You may need to do this while conditioning the dog to the crate, since you would ruin the conditioning by suddenly leaving the dog in the crate for longer than the time you've conditioned.
Other options for managing your dog until the training is complete would be doggy day care or day boarding with your veterinarian. You might also be able to find a friend, relative, neighbor or professional to dog-sit while you're out.
Managing a dog is an interesting and creative activity! Dogs change, our circumstances change, and we often have to rethink what "always worked before" but now doesn't. Communicate with your veterinarian to stay aware of any issues that affect your dog's ability to cope with crating or with the current schedule. Various medications, medical conditions, and body changes with age can mean a dog simply can't handle what worked fine when the dog was younger.
Dogs differ, too, in their temperaments, ability to hold bowels and bladder, past experiences, and many other factors that affect crating. What one dog takes in stride can be just too much for another dog.
The ability to rest calmly in a crate has saved dogs' lives during crisis times. If you have to cope with a situation such as evacuating in an emergency or keeping your dog on restricted activity for several weeks after an orthopedic surgery, crate-training can make a huge difference in how the dog will do. Be sure to allow plenty of time for your dog to learn to feel safe, secure, and comfortable in a crate. Posted May 11, 2011
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May 06, 2011
Cat Excessive Vocalization
Brent Bilhartz
VOCALIZATION - EXCESSIVE
Why is my cat persistently crying?
Most owner complaints about feline vocalization are either to do with the intensity and persistence of the vocalization, or the fact that it occurs at night, when family members or neighbors are trying to sleep. Attention getting behaviors, sexual (estrus or male) behaviors, play behavior, medical problems, discomfort and aggressive displays are the most common reasons for feline vocalization. Of course, since some cats are quite active at night, it is not surprising that many owners are concerned about their cat's nighttime vocalization and activity. Some breeds, such as the Siamese are much more likely to be vocal than others.
What can be done to prevent undesirable vocalization?
Providing sufficient play and exercise during the daytime and evening may help to schedule the cat so that it sleeps through the night. For details on feline play see 'Excessive nocturnal activity in cats'. Never reward vocalization by providing food, attention, or play, when the cat vocalizes. Mild outbursts of vocalization can either be ignored or interrupted with remote punishment techniques such as a water gun, compressed air, loud verbal no, or an alarm device, but never through physical punishment.
How can excessive vocalization problems be treated?
Understanding the problem
The cause of the cat's vocalization, those stimuli that are associated with the onset of the behavior as well as all factors that might be reinforcing the behavior, must be understood. For some cats, especially those that are middle aged or elderly , veterinary examination is recommended to rule out potential medical causes of vocalization such as pain, endocrine dysfunction and hypertension. Some older cats may begin to vocalize as their senses or cognitive function begins to decline (senility). (see our handout on 'Behavior problems of older pets' for more details).
Modify the environment
If the cat can be denied exposure to the stimuli for the vocalization (e.g. the sight or sounds of other cats), or prevented from performing the behavior (e.g. keeping the cat out of the owner's bedroom at night), the problem can often be successfully resolved.
Modify the pet
The most important aspect of a correction program is to identify what may be serving to reinforce (reward) the behavior. Many owners inadvertently encourage the behavior by giving the cat something it values during vocalization. Attention, affection, play, a treat, and allowing the cat access to a desirable area (outdoors, indoors) are all forms of reinforcement. Reinforcement of even a very few of the vocalization outbursts perpetuates the behavior. Although removal of reinforcement (known as extinction) ultimately reduces or eliminates excessive vocalization, the behavior at first becomes more intense as the cat attempts to get the reward. This is known as an extinction burst.
Punishment
Physical punishment should never be utilized in cats. Not only is it ineffective at correcting most behavior problems, it can also lead to fear and anxiety of the owner, people in general or being handled and petted. Although ignoring the vocalization, so that the cat receives no reward for the behavior, is the best solution, in the long run it can be difficult to do. Punishment devices can be used to interrupt the behavior immediately and effectively. A spray of water, an ultrasonic device, an audible alarm or a quick puff of compressed air (from a computer or camera lens cleaner) is often effective at stopping the behavior, and at the same time ensuring that the cat has received no form of reward. Punishment that is not immediately effective should be discontinued. With some ingenuity, remote control devices can be used to activate punishment devices and remove the owner as the source of the punishment. Some cats might be successfully fitted with a remote citronella collar so that they can be immediately interrupted.
What can be done for cats that vocalize through the night?
For those cats that vocalize through the night, it is first necessary to try and reschedule the cat so that it stays awake and active throughout the daytime and evening. Food, play, affection and attention should be provided during the morning and evening hours, and as many activities as possible must be provided for the cat during the day (cat scratch feeders, activity centers, or perhaps even another pet). Drug therapy may also be useful for a few nights to help get the cat to adapt to the new schedule. Older cats with sensory dysfunction and geriatric cognitive decline may begin to wake more through
the night and vocalize more frequently. These cases will need to be dealt with individually depending on the cat's physical health. If the cat continues to remain awake through the night, there are two options that might be considered. The first is to lock the cat out of the bedroom by either shutting the bedroom door, or confining it to a room or crate with bedding and a litter box for elimination. If the cat is ignored it may learn to sleep through the night, or it may be able to keep itself occupied if there are sufficient toys, activities or another cat to play with. Under no situation should the owner go to the cat if it vocalizes (even to try and quiet it down) as this will reward the behavior. If the cat must be allowed access to the bedroom, inattention, and punishment devices such as an ultrasonic alarm, compressed air, or a water sprayer, can be used to decrease or eliminate the cat's desire to vocalize.
Will neutering help?
If your cat is an adult male or female and not yet neutered, then some forms of vocalization are associated with communication, especially with
regard to estrus cycles and mating. Cats in estrus are particularly vocal "calling". Neutering should help to reduce vocalization in these cats. Neutered animals still may wish to go outside and roam. If there are other cats in the neighborhood that frequent the home territory, this may encourage your cat to vocalize. Blocking visual access, and providing "white noise" may help if you are unable to get the outdoor cats to leave your property.
LazyPaw Animal Hospitals
Frisco, Tx 75034
www.LazyPawVet.com
(972) 712-1300
If you have any questions or concerns, please notify our
staff so that we may assist you in any way that we can.
Thank you for allowing us to serve you and your pet!
Posted May 06, 2011
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May 03, 2011
New Puppy Barking!
Julaine Hunter
From Veterinary Partner The first time most people find a new puppy's noise bothersome is when they confine the pup at night in a crate, exercise pen, or small room with a baby gate across the doorway. It's natural for a pup alone to call out for someone to come. Pups alone in the wild would not survive! The puppy is following instinct.
The first thing you need to know about helping your new puppy learn to remain quiet in confinement is NOT to go to the puppy in response to noise. If noise does not work, the puppy will eventually give up that method of communication
If you have responded to the noise by going to the puppy, you have now reinforced this instinct. The process of conditioning your puppy to relax and remain quiet in confinement is going to take longer. You will need extra patience. Remember, this is not your puppy's fault, and getting mad at the puppy will not help. Be consistent about going to the pup ONLY when the pup is quiet.
In particular, do not wait and wait while the puppy makes more and more noise, and then you finally go to the puppy. By doing this, you would teach your puppy to be especially PERSISTENT about making noise! If you have done this already, remember you are going to have to be very patient indeed to give your puppy time to unlearn this unfortunate reinforcement. If you stop reinforcing a behavior, eventually it will fade. But the more strongly it has been reinforced before you stop reinforcing it, the longer it will take to fade.
Punishment would NOT speed your puppy's learning to be quiet, any more than it would help your human infant learn not to cry. Punishment would greatly increase stress on the puppy, create more behavior problems, and seriously damage your relationship.
You can help your puppy accept confinement more quickly by introducing the confinement area gently, giving the pup treats while in the confined area. You can also make confinement less stressful for the puppy by placing the crate or exercise pen in your bedroom at night. This lets the pup get used to the confinement without at the same time having to deal with being alone.
It's a good idea to always give a pup or dog a treat upon entering the confinement area, along with high-quality chew toys. Make sure, of course, to use only treats consistent with your dog's diet as recommended by your veterinarian. Your goal is for the dog to rest calmly in confinement. Since dogs sleep fourteen or more hours a day, it's reasonable to use confinement if that time will be sleeping time. Excessive confinement is physically and mentally unhealthy for dogs.
There are adult dogs who cannot tolerate confinement to crates. Some of these dogs can be trained without crates to the point of being able to be safely loose in your house. Those suffering from severe separation anxiety may require the help of medication from your veterinarian during the adjustment process.
The ability to rest calmly in a crate can mean life or death to your dog at some point in the future, so it's extremely important to help your puppy develop this skill. Situations where a dog needs this ability include recovery from medical problems, travel, emergency evacuation, and adjustment to a new home or a new family. It will never again be as easy for the dog to develop the ability to rest calmly in a crate as it is in puppyhood. Posted May 03, 2011
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January 23, 2011
Ear Mites
Julaine Hunter
Head shaking, constantly scratching ears, head tilt. Do any of these behaviors sound familiar? Your pet might have ear mites. Ear mites are tiny external parasites that live in your pet’s ear canal. Otodectes cyanotis, otherwise known as ear mites, are very contagious little creatures. The adult mites can live up to 2 months in your pet’s ear contently feeding on ear wax and skin oils. If you think your pet may have mites bring him/her to your Veterinarian to get them checked out. The best way to diagnose this parasite is by having your Veterinarian take an ear swab from your pet’s ears. They will then look under the microscope and if your pet has mites this is what they will look like:
Mites here at Lazy Paw Animal Hospitals are usually treated with MilbeMite which is a one-time treatment for ear mites. Just simply squeeze out the pre-measured tube of medicine into each ear massage the ear canal.
Bringing your pet in as soon as they show any of these behaviors will help us to be able to distinguish between them having mites or an ear infection. In either case, feel free to make an appointment online or over the phone with us to help make your pet feel better faster! Posted January 23, 2011
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September 17, 2010
Water Safety
Julaine Hunter
Well the rain has finally come, and fall weather can’t be far behind. For those of us lucky enough to live in more temperate zones, the end of summer doesn’t necessarily mean an end to water sports in general or a need to “put the boat up.”Seagoing cats and occasionally dogs, are not an unheard of combination; in fact, historically speaking there is a great deal to be said for the seafaring tradition of cats. Though brought on board more often for their hunting prowess whose skills greatly benefited the health of their human shipmates, other, less tangible benefits than rodent population control were likely reaped by the crew, similar to those received by cat owners of today. So great were these benefits that some ship captains were loathe to go to sea without these diminutive crew members, as evidenced by a NY Times advertisement published October 1, 1922 in which the lead in reads
Why were these pets so adapted to life at sea? Simple answer: They didn’t know any different. For those planning to spend a great deal of time shipboard, proper pet selection is crucial. If you plan to spend much of your time at sea, it’s wise to choose a pet specifically to be your shipmate. Puppies and kittens who are raised on a boat think life afloat is the way life is. Older pets who’ve lived a landlubber life are likely to experience a period of adjustment. For dogs, additional training may be necessary to take care of the “necessities” and until they get the knack of it, frequent landings may be required. Cats, once over the stress of transport to the boat and their new surroundings will typically resume litter box use as they have previously done on land.
Nowadays pets are taken aboard for reasons other than vermin control. They provide numerous benefits: companionship, a sense of safety as their keener senses can alert
their crew to potential water dangers, and they can even facilitate foreign relations as these four-legged ambassadors are often conversation starters when entering new ports of call.
As valued members of the crew, pet safety also needs to be considered. Your veterinarian can assist you in assembling a first aid kit specific to your pet that should be kept on board at all times. In addition, PFD’s (Personal Floatation Devices) now come in all ranges of sizes and colors for the canine species! Practice with your pet in and out of the water putting one of these on; it could save their life! For cats, training them to grasp a thick rope or towel from the water to facilitate “self rescue” is likely best until a feline PFD version becomes available. Cats are not small dogs. Canine life vests do not fit well and can hinder movement, the worst possible combination in a water emergency.
Not all pets are “born to the sea” thus a little training is indicated for most. Keep things simple. Make initial introductions to water craft slowly, for short time periods and encourage them by giving lots of positive attention including food rewards. Let pets get out and sniff and explore the craft as well as experience the rise and fall with the water swells without the addition of motor sounds. Once accustomed to the feel of the water, gradually introduce the sounds common shipboard: a motor, rigging movements, radio, et cetera. Making sure initial tours are fun for your companion will pay off in the long run for all crew members.
Posted September 17, 2010
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September 15, 2010
Dogs Eat Things
Julaine Hunter
As most of you experienced dog and cat owners likely already know, pets eat the darnedest things.
We’ve all used “the dog ate my homework” excuse at least once in our lives, or 10-15 times if you are me, but who’s counting. (I ask you, how is the teacher going to know which kids have pets and which don’t unless you come to school covered with cat hair each morning?) Well, it’s a good thing I don’t teach grade school because after our recent run of foreign bodies (that’s vet speak for dogs and cats doing what dogs and cats will do when left unattended, or not, and the wrong thing(s) get swallowed) ‘cause I’d believe most animals would eat almost anything, and several do.
Fortunately, many of the things that go down will come back up, either on their own or with a bit of emetic medication. Take the sock that readily came back up after a dose of apomorphine last Friday. For some reason, even though they had its mate, the owners declined its partner’s return after it was successfully, albeit a tad messily, retrieved. This was a lucky situation. In this case, our client witnessed the act of consumption and sought immediate veterinary medical care. Often times we have decent success with early intervention. The problem arises when the patient is not caught in the act or if owners elect to wait and see. Sometimes conservative action work, but sometimes it doesn’t.
So what does a “foreign body” patient look like? Not surprisingly, most are less than 2 years of age, have a history of putting things into their mouths and have destructive tendencies when it comes to walls, furniture, yarn/string, toys, clothing or any inanimate object. During the holidays, ribbons and tinsel pose a seasonal hazard as they are of special interest to playful cats, kittens and puppies who view these objects as prey (or toys) to be chased, pounced on, chewed and, quite often, ingested. The resultant “linear foreign body” can catch in the gastrointestinal tract as a drawstring does in an athletic pant and causes bunching of the intestines as the bowel tries to move the material from one end to the other. Surgical intervention is often necessary.
The clinical appearance of these patients varies. Early on, most, depending upon what was ingested and whether or not a complete bowel obstruction exists, show no or little sign that there is an impending problem. Patients with a longer duration problem or who have developed complete blockage are often acutely vomiting, have decreased gut sounds, are acting depressed/lethargic, will not eat and have reduced or little fecal production.
In the past month I have removed underwear, parts of a rubber garden hose’s interior mesh with a bit of plastic as an added bonus, a needle and thread, and part of a kong.
So what is the solution? Supervision. Confinement. Inaccessibility. In 90% of cases, preventative measures such as making sure that pets are denied access to ingestible materials either through close monitoring, keeping them confined to areas that they can’t/won’t chew out of and placing small things out of reach, can the need for emergency and life-saving surgical intervention.
Until next time, dear Readers, stay cool and have fun!
Dr. Hunter Posted September 15, 2010
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August 13, 2010
"Knead Pets" Pet Massage
Julaine Hunter
We welcome Guest Blogger Carrie Nava who owns and operates Knead Pets, a local pet massage company.
Pet Massage Tricks for Dogs
Ask any Pet Parent what they want for their furry kids and you get the same basic answer: a happy, healthy and long life. These beloved family members bring so much to our lives. In turn, we supply specialized pet foods, toys and treats, play dates, sitters and so much more. When the tell-tale signs of aging begin to emerge, many of us feel sad and helpless. The signs start slowly – Max isn’t as eager to go for walks as before or Abby doesn’t get up from her naps quite as quickly as she used to. While many of us are concerned, most of us try to ignore the signs since nothing can be done to help. But, the process of aging doesn’t mean an immediate debilitated state or shortened life span. Along with the advancements in the quality of food, pet care and veterinary services, there are other tools to help fulfill the lifelong goals we have for our pets.
One of the best “new tricks” for handling age-related and degenerative conditions is massage therapy. The modality of massage for animals is not new, but is now more readily available for companion animals in North Texas. Massage has been practiced on animals for centuries and in the US since at least the early 1900’s. The primary reason that this may seem like a new concept is that the practice has primarily been limited to Equestrian Centers, Zoological Facilities and Agility/Event trials.
Massage is a gentle, non-invasive form of complementary health care focused on optimizing how your pet feels and functions every day. Massage therapy is the manipulation of muscles and other soft tissues to improve their overall function and flexibility. The result is an overall improvement in your pet’s quality of life. Like massage for people, animal massage is grounded in real science – anatomy, physiology, kinesiology and psychology. Certified animal massage practitioners study all of these concepts and learn to correctly apply them to dogs, cats and other animals. Some specific benefits of massage include reduction in pain or discomfort from inflammation, stiffness and spasm; promotion of blood and lymph circulation throughout the body; reduction of anxiety and depression and heightened immune system function.* Senior pets are among the most ideal candidates for massage therapy. Their progress is typically the most profound and noticeable. In addition to relief from pain and reduction in joint stiffness, regular massage sessions can aid in the early detection of more serious conditions by recognizing superficial abnormalities and reporting them to your veterinarian. Massage plans for geriatric pets are especially focused on problem areas as reported by Pet Parent or Veterinarian or areas that typically show signs of wear first such as hips and knees. Massage therapy is a perfect complement to routine veterinary care. Keeping pets healthy and mobile is the overall goal. Plans are customized, affordable and the sessions take place in your pet’s own home. Best of all, many massage strokes are simple enough that they can be performed by the Pet Parent at any time.
Find a qualified animal massage practitioner near you and try this new trick on your old dog today.
*Small Animal Massage is a form of complementary healthcare and not a substitute for the care of a qualified veterinary professional. Massage therapy is not intended to diagnose, treat or cure any medical condition. Always consult your veterinarian before seeking massage therapy for your pet
Posted August 13, 2010
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August 04, 2010
Pet Safety in the Heat
Julaine Hunter
Now that summer the summer heat has settled in to stay, both pets and owners need to stay prepared and safe.
Even though animals are eager to play outside in warmer climates, the sunny weather can be dangerous for both cats and dogs.
Pets need sunscreen. Just like humans, your cat or dog can get extremely sunburned, especially if your pet has light colored hair. Animal sunburns can cause the same problems as those of humans: peeling, redness and even cancer. Skin cancer in pets is much more prevalent than one would assume, so purchasing pet-friendly sunscreen can go a long way in protecting the health of your pet when the heat kicks in. Places that are easy to forget, but prone to burning are: inside the nostrils, tip of nose, around your dog’s lips and the inside of ears for dogs with stand-up ears.
Never leave your pet in the car. It may seem like a car trip will cool off your pet, but it will probably do more harm than good if you leave your pet in the car for even a few minutes. The temperature in your car can rise over 100 degrees in a manner of minutes, so if you are bringing the dog in the car, make sure you can take him out on any errands you run when parking the vehicle.
Pets need extra water... but don’t let them drink just anything. Just like humans, pets need a lot of water during the summer, but be careful not to leave that water out too long. The heat can breed bacteria, which can sicken your pet if you’ve left it out in the sun too long. Give your dog extra water during the spring and summer, but be careful to change the water often. If dogs are extra thirsty, pets are bound to drink something they shouldn't drink. Puddles of what looks like water may be on the ground, but these may include antifreeze or other dangerous chemicals, so keep an eye when the dog is panting and looking for something to sip on.
Don’t give your pet TOO much exercise. Don't overdo it in the heat. Keep walks to a gentle pace. If your pet is panting a lot or seems exhausted, it's time to stop. There are quick and easy ways for you and your pet to get in shape together this summer, but one of them is not overdoing it — try changing up the routine and jogging intervals with your dog, or walking up and down hills in order to exercise both yourself and your pet.
Inside is better than outside. Even if your pet is in the shade, it can get sick quickly on hot days. As much as Fido wants to go outside, it is usually smarter to keep your pet inside as much as possible. If you have to leave the dog outside on a hot day, make sure to check on him/her regularly. NEVER leave the house on a hot day with the dog outside.
Watch for heatstroke. Dogs can develop heatstroke fairly quickly. Signs of this are excessive panting, staring, anxious expression on the face, warm skin, refusal to obey commands by owner, vomiting, collapse and rapid heartbeat. If you suspect that your pet is suffering from this, lower the animal's body temperature by applying towels soaked in cool water to the hairless areas of the body. Often the pet will respond after just a few minutes of cooling, only to falter again with his temperature soaring back up or falling to well below what is normal. Take the dog to the vet immediately — don’t try to solve this yourself.
Throw away uneaten food. Although you may leave wet cat food out or dog food during the day in winter months, summer months and warm weather lead to increased bacteria growth, so if your pet doesn’t eat it immediately, bring the food inside to the cool house, where it can be kept for longer.
SPECIAL TIPS FOR CATS
Watch out for hairballs. Despite the fact that spring is the main shedding season for cats, indoor cats also shed a lot in hot weather, so be wary of this during the summer months. It is much easier for your cat to ingest more hair and spit up hairballs frequently when it is hot outside. Frequently brushing your cat helps alleviate the chance of this, or even buying a “hairball prevention product” which will lower the chance of this happening and making your cat sick.
Keep the cat wet if it is an outdoor pet. If you have an outdoor cat, it is likely that it will remain outside most of the time during the spring and summer months. Frequently give it a bath or spray it with a squirt bottle to keep it from overheating, or even pet your cat with a wet glove or towel to cool it down. This is especially important if your cat is elderly or obese.
Protect outdoor cats against fleas and ticks more than ever. Although fleas and ticks are problems throughout the year, they are especially bad during the summer months. Ensure you use a good quality flea control product on your outdoor cat and treat the environment that it stays in as well. Make sure that you check your outdoor cat for ticks often as they are dangerous and can result in death. Posted August 04, 2010
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